RESTAURANTS

BHARATHS
Lot 415, Level 4, Suria KLCC, Jln. Ampang, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2163-2631
B$10 to B$40
Ampang
Indian
Heavy wooden doors, traditional wooden swings, and stone figurines clue you in to this restaurant's cuisine: spicy south Indian food. Specialties include crab cutlets, mutton masala (with a traditional blend of spices), fish curry, and a range of vegetarian dishes. You can try a variety of southern Indian drinks including ginger tea, Madras coffee, and mango lassi (a yogurt drink). AE, MC, V.


CHAKRI PALACE
Lot 417b, Level 4, Suria KLCC, Jln. Ampang, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/382-7788
Under B$10 to B$40
Ampang
Thai
Surrounded by Thai paintings, vases, and carvings, you can select your dishes from a varied menu that includes fish, curried meats, and vegetables. Some favorites are pla kao sam rod (deep-fried garoupa with Thai chili herbs), gung phad nor-mai parang (asparagus with prawns), and a delicious mango-and-sticky rice dessert, khow neow ma-moung. AE, MC, V.


CHIKUYO-TEI
See Hoy Chan Plaza, Jln. Raja Chulan, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2070-0729
B$10 to B$40
Golden Triangle
Japanese
The dismal entrance -- into the basement of an office complex -- belies the warmly lighted, woody interior of the city's oldest Japanese restaurant. It serves excellent unagi kabayaki (grilled eel) and nigirisushi, a variety of sushi made with tuna, herring, salmon eggs, and squid. The teppanyaki -- meat, seafood, and vegetables sliced, seasoned, and cooked on a hot plate in front of you -- is popular. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sun.


CITRUS ROUGE
19 Jln. Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2142-5188
B$20 to Over B$40
Golden Triangle
Eclectic
Citrus wears several hats at once: there are a counter; a glass-enclosed restaurant; and a large, partially open section with a dining area, a long bar, and a dance floor. The cuisine is a mixture of French and Italian. Try the langoustine à la Campanola, with mushroom, spinach, beef bacon, and thyme sauce. The service is very friendly. AE, MC, V.


COLISEUM CAFE
98-100 Jln. Tuanku Abdul Rahman, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2692-6270
Under B$10 to B$40
Jalan TAR
Continental
The aroma of sizzling steak and a whiff of nostalgia fill the air in this slightly seedy colonial-era café. The waiters' starched white jackets are a bit frayed, and the walls are cracked and brown with age. Steaks are served with brussels sprouts, fries, and a salad. Another favorite here is crab baked with cheese. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards.


FIC'S
Mutiara Kuala Lumpur, Jln. Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2142-2122
B$20 to Over B$40
Golden Triangle
Contemporary
A staircase winds down into two striking dining areas separated by a man-made stream. Huge windows look out onto an enclosed garden, and granite slabs on the floor and walls are inset with metal letters that spell out recipes or wine descriptions. The dishes are European infused with Asian flavors. À la carte and set menus are available for lunch and dinner. Choices vary each month, but one constant is lamb shank braised in wine and served with potato purée, shiitake mushrooms, deep-fried onions, and fresh herbs. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.


KEDAI MAKANAN YUT KEE
35 Jln. Dang Wangi, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2698-8108
Under B$10 to B$40
City Centre
Chinese
Big and airy but rather noisy from the city traffic, the casual dining area of this decades-old family-run Hainanese restaurant is filled with marble-top tables and regulars who insist on their favorite seats. Be sure to try the roti babi, a sandwich with pork filling dipped in egg and deep-fried (douse it liberally with Worcestershire sauce). The coffee is the best around, and the kaya-filled Swiss roll makes a fine dessert. Meals are served starting at 7 AM; service stops at 6 PM. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards. Closed Mon. No dinner.


LAFITE RESTAURANT
Shangri-La Hotel, 11 Jln. Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2074-3900
B$20 to Over B$40
Golden Triangle
French
Designer Adam Tihany -- the mastermind behind the interiors of Spago and Le Cirque -- gave this traditional French restaurant a modern, New York-style interior. The circular main dining area is walled in by floor-to-ceiling silk-taffeta curtains strung with crystal balls; the dramatic centerpiece is a green-glass culvert that catches water falling from the ceiling. Christofle designed the champagne flutes (they can be detached from solid-silver bases), the candelabras, and the menu holders. A recommended dish is the fillet Rossini Lafite (fried potatoes and caramelized shallots atop pan-fried foie gras and beef tenderloin). Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V.


LAI CHING YUEN
Regent Hotel, 160 Jln. Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2141-8000
B$20 to Over B$40
Golden Triangle
Chinese
The extensive menu at this acclaimed Cantonese restaurant features shark's-fin and bird's-nest soups as well as abalone, pigeon, chicken, duck, and barbecue specialties. The dining room is designed as two pavilions; elegant touches include illuminated glass etchings, modern Chinese art, silver panels, a Burmese teak ceiling, and silver-and-jade table settings. Traditional music on Malay instruments accompanies dinner. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V.


MAHSURI
Taman Tasik Perdana, off N. Klang Valley Expressway, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2282-1888
Over B$40
Lake Gardens
Eclectic
The dining room of the Carcosa Seri Negara hotel -- which is made up of a pair of colonial mansions -- offers excellent Continental and Malaysian cuisine. The afternoon tea here is famous; partake of it, and you won't want dinner. You can enjoy Sunday's curry tiffin -- a sumptuous spread of Anglo-Indian and Malay dishes -- on the wide veranda or in the air-conditioned restaurant. To work off the excess weight you may have gained, you can indulge in a game of croquet on the lawn. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.


OLD CHINA CAFE
11 Jln. Balai Polis, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2072-5915
B$10 to B$40
Chinatown
Nonya
This charming café-restaurant at the bottom end of Chinatown is in a guildhall that was built at the turn of the last century, and its large mirrors, tables and chairs, porcelain pieces, and memorabilia are from that period. The Pinang-born chef offers a delectable range of Nonya dishes, including curry kapitan (chicken in spiced coconut milk) and udang asam pedas (prawns in sour hot gravy). AE, MC, V.


RASA UTARA
B5003, Basement 1, Bukit Bintang Plaza, Jln. Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2141-9246
Under B$10 to B$20
Golden Triangle
Malaysian
The interior is somewhat impersonal, but the Malay dishes -- including many Kedah specialties from the north -- are outstanding. There are reasonably priced set menus (written in English and Malay) for two, four, or six or more diners, as well as à la carte choices. The meal for two comes with rice, chicken curry, mixed vegetables, an omelet, fruit, and a soft drink, all for only RM 15 per person. The roti jala (pancakes with chicken or beef curry) are lovely. Refresh yourself with a glass of coconut water. AE, DC, MC, V.


SCALINI
19 Jln. Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2145-3211
B$20 to Over B$40
Golden Triangle
Italian
The mood is minimalist and modern; the menu mainly Italian. You'll find pizza (baked in a wood-fired oven), beef carpaccio, clam-and-mussel soup, and squid-ink pasta with prawns. The wine list has varieties from around the world; if you don't want a bottle, you can order by the glass (around RM 16). There are three dining areas -- four, if you count the garden, which is sometimes opened to accommodate patrons. AE, MC, V.


SERI MELAYU
1 Jln. Conlay, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2145-1833
B$20 to B$30
Golden Triangle
Malaysian
Here's your chance to eat Malay style -- seated on a tikar (woven mat) -- while taking in a show of Malaysian music and dance. There's an à la carte menu as well as a dinner buffet with an excellent selection of spicy and mild curries, vegetable dishes, and kuih (cake). Best bets include the rich, meaty rendang; ulam (vitamin-rich herbs that you dip into a spicy sauce); and, for dessert, pengat durian, made with that oh-so-controversial fruit. AE, DC, MC, V.


THE TASTE OF HAINAN
Lot 10 Shopping Centre, Jln. Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2144-7701
Under B$10 to B$40
Golden Triangle
Malaysian
This place has the look of a Shanghai opium den circa 1930. The Hainanese cooking -- from freshwater prawns with a garlic-and-chili dip to grilled fresh salmon with mustard butter, cream, and crispy ginger -- will appeal even if the decor doesn't. AE, MC, V.


TEOCHEW RESTAURANT
270-272 Jln. Changkat Thamby Dollah, off Jln. Pudu, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2141-5851
Under B$10 to Over B$40
Golden Triangle
Chinese
Soothing creams and browns, well-spaced tables, and screened-off private dining areas make this spacious eatery inviting. It's popular on weekends and holidays, when 100 varieties of dim sum are served for breakfast and lunch. Typical dishes include noodles made entirely of fish; sea cucumber stuffed with scallops, crab, mushrooms, and water chestnuts; and sizzling prawns. Try also the oh wee, a sweet yam dessert with ginkgo nuts that's served with tiny cups of bitter Teochew tea. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.


TERRACE GARDEN
308 Jln. Ampang, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/4257-2378
B$20 to Over B$40
Ampang
Continental
Soothing shades of green and gray, white walls, black-framed windows, and pale-green trellis dividers blend well in this restaurant converted from a house. Dolly Lim runs the place sweetly and efficiently, the service is friendly, and there's live music every night but Sunday. The chef recommends either the charbroiled spareribs or the sea bass with martini sauce and black pepper. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.


WEST 57TH STREET CAFE
Lower ground floor, Bukit Bintang Plaza, Jln. Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: 03/2148-5563
Under B$10 to B$20
Golden Triangle
Eclectic
A tiny gift shop opens onto a small, intimate dining area at this haunt of local entertainers and the "in crowd." The pale-green drapes may not be to everyone's taste, but the food is delicious. A typical menu is New York-style pasta with prawns, salmon, chicken, meatballs, and cheese. The open-face chicken pie is memorable. AE, MC, V.